1.1.08

i know it has been a really long time since the last time i wrote anything...

well winter/tabaski/christmas/new years break is going on right now. that started around the 15th of december but students cleverly were on strike for at least a week or two before the break really started. my galpal madeleine ventured down here from milan to check out my little life. i think she really liked it. we went out with my friends (a group of tall, silly senegalese guys) and wandered the markets, etc. we didn't do too much travelling, we only spent one day in dakar but i think it was ok...she got a good look at senegalese life from my friends. we celebrated the muslim holiday tabaski (i don't know what it is in english) and watched sheep get killed for it. i know it seems normal that i would say this but it was surreal. i mean, we saw the life drain out of it. which makes sense but it was so natural and peaceful...it wasn't scary or nauseating or anything like that. according to islam, any sheep that is killed on the day of tabaski goes directly to heaven. one of the girls who was there was surprised that i'd never seen an animal be killed before. i said it was my first time and she said, "ah bon??" even the little 2 year old girl sat on a chair right behind the men and watched them slit the sheeps' throats. after that madeleine and i peeled potatoes and cut onions for 3 hours. our hands smelled like onions for about 5 days afterwards...i didn't mind but it drove madeleine crazy. we both got traditional senegalese outfits made for the holiday too. hers was blue and mine was red. senegalese people really enjoy seeing toubabs wear the teré wolof (traditional outfits). i think they feel like it shows a sensitivity to their culture that tourists never touch. one of my senegalese friends explained to me that the senegalese think white people have alot of money and hassle us alot because when they see white people, it is in the markets where they are buying little souvenirs or out and about buying expensive cups of coffee and food in restaurants etc. for them, money is for needs only. they see white people as living a lavish lifestyle consuming, consuming, consuming and they think we have all the money in the world. even in the other aspects of their life, they eat around a bowl where everyone is sharing and there is only one large dish to clean. and they don't really use eating utensiles because they have hands so they don't need them. it is simplistic and it makes sense. i never realized what a consumerist society was until i got here...on a different subject, the biggest religious leader here (religious leaders are known as marabouts) died on friday night. madeleine and i were at my friend paco's house waiting to go out and my other pal amadou got there and turned on the radio. at first everyone was just kind of quiet but then paco left the room and we heard him wail. it was the most gut wrenching sound i have ever heard. a huge, muscular, grown man sobbing. needless to say madeleine and i had no idea what to do and ended up getting our baggage and hopping in a sept-place to dakar. afterwards though, the government of senegal declared 3 days of mourning in respect for serigne saliou mbake. last night was new years eve but i didn't go out, i don't know if anyone did. the 3 days of mourning are over today though so i think i'll have one last dance tonight. well, it is time to find some food. damaa xiif. (i'm hungry)...ciao. happy new years.